Something not working right? Search your symptom below to find the likely cause, a few safe checks you can do yourself, and when it's time to call a pro. Written by the licensed irrigation techs at Aqua Premier — fixing systems across Northeast Florida since 2004.
No match for that search. Try a simpler word like “pressure,” “leak,” “valve,” or “timer” — or book a diagnostic visit and we'll figure it out for you.
A cracked or sheared-off head usually geysers water or sprays straight up — one of the most common and easiest fixes.
Call a pro if: the riser snapped below grade or the fitting is cracked — we'll replace the head, match the pattern and re-check coverage.
A head that stays low or barely rises is usually packed with grit, blocked by grass, or starved for pressure.
Call a pro if: the head still won't rise after clearing it — the body or riser likely needs replacing, or the zone has a pressure problem.
When a head won't drop back down after the zone shuts off, debris or a worn retract spring is the usual culprit.
Call a pro if: cleaning doesn't fix it — the spring/body is worn and the head should be replaced.
Watering pavement wastes money and usually means a head was bumped out of alignment or has the wrong nozzle.
Call a pro if: adjusting doesn't fix the overspray — the head may need a different nozzle or to be relocated.
If one head is weak while the zone is otherwise fine, it's almost always a clog in the nozzle or filter screen.
Call a pro if: several heads are weak — that points to pressure or a leak, not just a clog.
Rotors (the heads that sweep back and forth) need adequate pressure and a working internal drive to turn.
Call a pro if: a single rotor is dead — the drive is worn and the head should be replaced; if all are slow, we'll diagnose the pressure source.
When a single zone is dead but the rest run, the problem is almost always electrical or in that zone's valve.
Call a pro if: the controller looks fine but the zone stays dead — it's likely the solenoid, wiring or valve, which needs voltage testing. See sprinkler & valve repair →
A zone still running after the controller stops means a valve is stuck open — and it can flood a yard fast.
Call a pro if: shutting the controller off doesn't stop it — the valve needs to be cleaned, rebuilt or replaced.
If just one zone is weak while others are strong, suspect a leak or a valve problem on that zone.
Call a pro if: you find a wet area or the whole zone is weak — there's likely a buried leak to locate and repair.
Zones aren't meant to overlap — when they do, it's a valve, wiring, or programming issue.
Call a pro if: the schedule is correct but zones still overlap — valves and wiring need testing.
No display almost always means the controller isn't getting power.
Call a pro if: power is good but the screen stays blank — the transformer or controller needs replacing. Consider a smart Wi-Fi upgrade →
Over-watering is nearly always a programming issue — and an easy money-saver to fix.
Call a pro if: you'd rather we dial in an efficient seasonal schedule — it's part of every Premier+ tune-up.
Unexpected start times usually trace back to the controller's program, not a ghost in the system.
Call a pro if: the program looks right but it still starts on its own — the controller may be failing.
B-hyve, Rachio and Hydrawise controllers need a 2.4 GHz network and a solid signal where the controller is mounted (often a garage wall).
Call a pro if: you want it installed and set up right the first time. See smart controller installation →
A little rainwater in a valve box is normal; a box that stays full or refills after pumping means a leak.
Call a pro if: it refills on its own — a valve, fitting or manifold is leaking and should be repaired before it worsens.
The solenoid is the small cylinder with two wires on top of the valve; it's what the controller energizes to open the valve.
Call a pro if: the solenoid is suspect — we test voltage, replace the solenoid, and waterproof the splices so it doesn't recur.
Weak spray across every zone points to the water supply, not individual heads.
Call a pro if: the valves are open and pressure is still low — we'll trace it to the supply, backflow, pump or a leak.
A fine fog that drifts on the breeze is the classic sign of too much pressure for the heads.
Call a pro if: you want it fixed for good — pressure-regulating heads or nozzles stop the misting, improve coverage and cut water waste.
A spot that stays wet — especially after the system runs — usually means a leak underneath it.
Call a pro if: there's a buried leak — we locate the exact spot and repair the pipe with minimal digging.
Water surfacing from the lawn (not a head) means a cracked pipe or fitting below.
Call a pro if: it's underground — locating and repairing buried lines is a quick job for us and prevents a bigger washout.
An unexplained spike very often traces back to the irrigation system running or leaking when you don't notice.
Call a pro if: you can't find an obvious cause — a leak test will pinpoint where the water is going.
On well/pump systems, the pump must start for any zone to get water.
Call a pro if: the breaker's on but the pump's silent — relays, switches and motors need testing. See pump & well service →
A motor that runs without delivering water has usually lost its prime.
Call a pro if: it won't hold prime — there's a suction leak or check-valve issue to repair. See pump & well service →
If you have to re-prime every time, air is getting into the suction side between cycles.
Call a pro if: the leak is hidden — we pressure-check the suction side, replace the check valve and reseal as needed.
Florida requires a working rain shut-off device — if yours waters in the rain, the sensor isn't doing its job.
Call a pro if: the sensor's bad or missing — we replace it, or upgrade you to a smart controller that skips watering on local weather.
After rain it's normal for a sensor to pause watering until it dries — but if it stays off for days, the sensor may be stuck.
Call a pro if: it won't reset — the sensor or its wiring needs service.
Dry patches usually mean uneven coverage, not too little total water — water is landing everywhere except that spot.
Call a pro if: coverage gaps remain — a tune-up adjusts heads, nozzles and spacing so the whole lawn gets even water. See sprinkler tune-up →
A good NE-Florida starting point: water early morning, about 2 days a week, aiming for roughly ½–¾ inch of water per session.
Want it dialed in? We set an efficient seasonal schedule on every visit. See Premier+ plans →
If the lawn stays soggy after a normal cycle, it's either over-watering, a leak, or a true drainage problem.
Call a pro if: water still pools — you may need drainage. We install French drains, catch basins and downspout drainage. See drainage solutions →
Tell us what your system is doing and a local Aqua Premier technician will track down the cause and fix it right — serving Jacksonville, Ponte Vedra, Nocatee, St. Augustine & all of St. Johns & Duval Counties.